This is the order I typically go about things to clean a swimming pool. It is also how we train our technicians. There are a few circumstances in which you might want to use a different order.
1.) Clean the skimmer baskets.
2.) Clean the pump strainer baskets.
3.) Check the filter pressure. If it is really high then backwash before vacuuming the pool for optimal performance. If you have a sand filter with some dirt in it but the pressure is only a little high then it will actually filter better… so I would wait till you are done cleaning to backwash in this situation.
4.) Net or skim the surface. It is nice to have a “deep” net that can hold more than just a few leaves. I also would typically run the net around all the tile area creating a little wave to knock off any debris clinging to the tile.
5.) Vacuum the floor. Try to go up the walls as much as possible if you notice a lot of dust or dirt on them. A best practice is to be sure not to vacuum any rocks, sticks, or even leaves through the underground skimmer pipe. We utilize either a leaf tank or a skimmer vacuum plate that sits above the skimmer basket and allows you to plug your vacuum hose into it. Both of these trap the leaves before they can go through the skimmer line to the pump basket.
6.) Brush the walls , steps, swim-outs, tanning ledges, and spa.
7.) Brush the tile line as needed.
8.) Add chemicals as needed.
9.) Check the equipment and make sure the timers are set back to automatic controls.
10.) Update your maintenance log. Write down what the chemical levels were and what was added. Also write down the filter pressure upon completion and if you backwashed. At Gabe’s Pool Service we keep a maintenance log showing 9 weeks so we can track what was added and how our chemicals affected the water. The log also shows us how fast the filter pressure is changing and when it is due to be backwashed or cleaned again.
If you are interested you can email us to get a copy of our maintenance report.
We hear this question a lot. While there are a number of potential causes that you might have cloudy pool water, there are several key causes that create the significant majority of cloudy water issues. I’ll address each of these most common causes individually. Keep in mind it is possible on some occasions that the cloudy pool water could be related to more than one cause being in play. I will assume you already have chlorine in the swimming pool water and the ability to utilize a circulation and filtration system as a remedy.
1.) Cause #1: Did you shock or super chlorinate recently?
The most common type of shock or powder-based chlorine is calcium hypochlorite. “Cal-hypo” as we call it in the pool industry is highly basic or high on the pH scale. This high pH means it causes cloudiness when introduced to pool water. Basic things are usually cloudy. Think of cow’s milk (basic, high pH) compared to lemon juice (acidic, low pH).
Remedy: Run your filter continuously to turn over the water and clear it. With a Diatomaceous Earth filter this may only take a few hours since it has the finest level of filtration. A cartridge filter might take 2-5 times as long. Sand filters might take multiple days. A trick for a sand filter is to add a couple of 1lb coffee cup sized scoops of DE powder to them to help them filter a little finer.
Note: With all filters be sure to monitor the pressure and make sure you backwash or clean them if it gets 5-10psi higher than the clean filter pressure for your system. With DE filters we usually shut down a system if we know the pressure has risen above 30psi to avoid damage to the filter internals. Cartridge filters can sometimes be configured to run clean at 30psi. In this case I would strongly suggest cleaning them out before the pressure gets close to 40psi.
2.) Cause #2: Do you have a combined higher than average level of pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness?
While each of these chemical items might be within an acceptable range the combination of each of them pushing the high end of their range can mean the water is out of balance. This is even more likely to be a factor if the water temperature is high. When the combination of these three chemical items and the water temperature is on the high side we have the potential for calcium to precipitate as scale and to make cloudy water.
The index used to describe the relationship of pH, TA, Calcium and Temperature is called the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI). If the Langelier Saturation Index has a positive reading then the swimming pool water has the potential to scale.
Here is a calculator to determine what your pH should be to achieve balanced water utilizing the Langelier Saturation Index:
I want to reiterate that you can have each chemical component within an acceptable range and yet if they are all pushing the high side of the acceptable range the combination can be to create water that is pushing calcium out which more easily causes both cloudy water and scale.
As a quick reference here are the ranges we manage towards for swimming pool service in the Dallas, TX area:
Chemical Industry Acceptable
pH (Potential Hydrogen) 7.2 – 7.8
TA (Total Alkalinity 80-120 ppm
Calcium 200-400 ppm
As a side note we like to keep the pH at or below 7.5 as much as possible. This provides for the chlorine in the pool to be more effective. For more on this topic see my blog post on how high pH affects chlorine effectiveness.
Remedy #1: If your pool water is prone to precipitating calcium you can almost immediately achieve balanced water by adding acid to lower the pH to the recommended level per the Langlier Saturation calculator above. Adding acid will also lower the TA slightly. However if you are compensating for high calcium via pH that has to always be at the low end of the range I would go ahead with Remedy #2.
Remedy #2: If your calcium is above 400ppm I would recommend a partial drain to lower the level. The new water from the tap will have an effective calcium level of almost zero. This means if you do a ½ drain on a pool with a calcium level of 500ppm that you will be reducing the calcium to 250ppm. Once you have added water make sure to rebalance all your chemicals.
3.) Cause #3: Did you have a storm recently?
Storms bring pollen, dust, sand, dirt, leaves etc into the pool very quickly. All this debris will begin to immediately be broken down by the chlorine in the swimming pool water via oxidation. Oxidation turns small particles and debris into a dust or powder that can cause cloudy pool water.
Remedy: (same remedy for cloudy water due to shock) Run your filter to clear your swimming pool water. DE filters will clear the fastest. Refer to the remedy above for shocking for more details on how long utilizing the filter will take and a trick to make a sand filter clear the pool water faster.
It is important to know if your swimming pool filter is working. Without knowing you could spend several days trying to clear your pool water and make it look good only to realize the dirt is simply re-circulating to the pool. You could also waste a lot of time trying to clean your pool and even spend needless money on chemicals or clarifier in an effort to get your water back on track.
I have two suggested methods for determining if your filter is working without doing a full disassemble and inspection on the filter and backwash valve.
Note: These methods will show if dirty water is returning. These methods assume if you have a pressure based sweep that uses unfiltered water (such as a Polaris 360) that this line is valved off or closed.
Also Note: If you have a backwash valve it is possible that the valve seal or diverter could be failing which is allowing dirty water to bypass the filter and re-circulate. However it is far more common for the filter to have an internal problem than the backwash valve itself fail… and either way these methods will show you if you have a filter / filter backwash valve problem.
Method #1: If you are unsure if your filter is working you can try adding some diatomaceous earth (DE) to a DE or sand filter to test it. I would suggest just a scoop or two (1lb coffee cup size) into the skimmer. Immediately after adding it go look at the pool jets or returns and see if you can visually detect cloudy water coming back in. If you can then you most likely have a filter issue and will need to address that.
Note: Do not add DE to a cartridge filter. You can add some cellulose fiber based filtration powder though if you want to try and see if anything comes through. DE can pack into the cartridge folds and cause excessive strain on the fabric elements.
Method #2: Another way to test your filter is to connect up a vacuum and hose to a skimmer suction port. You can then see if the jets or returns show any cloudy water coming back through. Of course this method assumes you have dirt on the floor of your pool that you can vacuum through the system to perform the test.
What if my pool filter shows dirt coming back through?
If either of the two methods above shows dirt or cloudy water coming back in then I would recommend a filter cleaning and backwash valve inspection. The filter cleaning should be a full disassemble and inspection of each internal part to determine where the damage is.
If you have a sand filter blowing dirt back in then I would check and see if the sand is more than 3-4 years old. If so you might be ready for a sand change. Over time the water going through the sand particles causes them to “round out” and lose their sharp edges. The rounding out makes the sand more like small marbles or round stones in a stream or natural water bed.
Replacing the sand in a filter typically costs several hundred dollars and can put you at 50% of the cost of a new filter. So if you are a residential pool owner or don’t need your filter running 24hrs a day (which sand filters are the only type that can both do this and backwash) then I would suggest considering a new filter at this time. A cartridge filter can do the job in ½ the time and a DE filter might do the job in ¼ the time it takes a sand filter to clear up a pool. This means you can run your pump less and stop giving so much money to the electrical company and have much better filtration.
Starting in the 2010 season we will be utilizing an in-line mineral system to help maintain better water balance, provide more eco-friendly environments, and promote healthier swimming pool water for our customers with pools on our ongoing maintenance programs for pool service in Dallas, Tx and surrounding areas. Mineral units are now being used to safely sanitize and disinfect by maintenance professionals in a variety of leading edge pools around the world including the Olympic Training Center in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.
Here is a video from a mineral system maker: They make the point several times in the video that they believe their product saves on chemical costs. While it is likely there may be some cost savings our primary reason for utilizing this product is to employ best practices in maintenance and to be proactive in preventing algae and bacteria buildup.
How does it work?
A small in-line unit containing a metal rod with minerals inside it is placed inside a pump strainer basket or skimmer basket. This introduces the minerals to the swimming pool circulatory system. Once introduced to the water in a swimming pools circulatory equipment, the minerals dissolve out of the unit and circulate through the swimming pool, eliminating viruses and breaking down both algae and bacteria.
The sanitation process causes the ions to lose charge as they clean the water. However, the unit in the pump or skimmer basket will be able to rejuvenate or reactivate the minerals. Once recharged, the minerals become active again and return to the pool. The mineral combination will form a stable natural mineral content in the water, which kills algae and bacteria and viruses while also being completely safe for humans.
What are the Benefits of a Mineral Unit?
1.) Less “Harsh Chemical” Usage – Algae treatments via shock, yellow out, algaecides, sodium bromide etc while effective at killing algae will make the water feel more “harsh” or “itchy”. Utilizing an in-line mineral unit will reduce the harsh effects from these treatments.
2.) Natural Scale Removal and Prevention Assistance – One of the minerals used is zinc. Zinc is a natural “de-scaler” which means it will help prevent and remove calcium buildup or precipitation onto swimming pool surfaces.
3.) Extends the Life of a Salt Cell – With the introduction of a mineral pack a salt system doesn’t have to work as hard. A mineral unit will typically extend the life of a salt cell several years saving customers $100-$200 per year.
4.) Healthier Water for Swimming – The minerals are a natural way to provide for smoother, less harsh water that is also pro-active at killing algae and bacteria.
This is a letter we are giving to our customers that we do not have a record of them doing a filter cleaning. We want them to be aware of the need to do regular filter cleanings. We offer a filter cleaning maintenance program that can be done in conjunction with our pool service or separately.
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Dear Customer,
We want to let you know that our records do not show your filter has been cleaned in the last 6 months. Manufacturers recommend their Diatomaceous Earth (DE), Cartridge, and Hybrid filters to be cleaned every 6 months.
Benefits of Regular Filter Cleanings:
1.) Saves Electricity
When the pump encounters resistance the motor’s governor forces the motor to maintain 3400 rpm’s. This requires the motor to draw more electricity to maintain the same speed under increased resistance. The additional heat further consumes electricity due to thermo resistance.
2.) Reduces Wear on the Pump Filter cleanings will provide greater flow and reduce the resistance on the pump’s internal parts. This leads to a longer pump lifecycle and less repairs on the filter pump motor.
3.) Reduces Wear on the Filter Regular filter cleanings allow the water to move evenly through the grids or elements which reduces disproportionate wear and provides improved flow.
4.) Reduces Staining As dirt accumulates in the filter iron, tannic acid, and other minerals dissolve and go through the filter back to the pool. These minerals will eventually precipitate onto the plaster and other surfaces causing discoloration.
5.) Healthy Pool When we clean a filter we typically remove 10-20 lbs of waste. Even though this waste is removed from the pool itself the pool water is still being pumped through it on a daily basis. By removing this debris regularly via a filter cleaning you can reduce the nitrates and phosphates from the pool water. This reduces slow bacterial growth and negative chlorine by-products.
Please Note: Although backwashing is included in your pool cleaning service this is different than a filter cleaning.
We offer a filter cleaning program to perform ongoing filter cleanings as they come due. We are willing to customize the program to fit your needs.
If you are on a filter cleaning program with us where we are pre-scheduled to clean your filter when it is due, we offer a discounted rate of $89 per filter cleaning (instead of $119).
Note: This is a post for an update on our drain and acid wash pool service for swimming pool owners in the Dallas, TX area.
We are now offering a drain and acid wash service for $585 flat rate. This includes all of the following:
1.) Drain the pool. We have a waiver we have customers sign disclosing risks of a fully drained pool. We then bring out a gas powered “trash vac” pump that can move up to 15,000 gallons per hour. This will drain most residential pools within 1-2hrs.
2.) Acid Wash. We use diluted muriatic pool acid combined with a buffer to wash the pool shell surfaces. The buffer helps ensure that the acid does not remove much of the plaster. This reduces the risk of exposing gunite underneath and also helps the plaster retain more of it’s smooth texture.
3.) Shovel out debris. This is as needed. We include up to 1 contractor size bag of debris removed. We use plastic snow shovels to scoop up the solids from the pool floor. If extra bags are needed we will fill them at a cost of $49 per bag.
4.) Refill the pool. If residential we will typically need the customer to call us when the water is back up to the tile line.
5.) Add startup chemicals. We add cyanueric acid /stabilizer, calcium, sodium bi-carbonate, muriatic acid, and chlorine to convert the tap water to pool water and get the water balanced. All these chemicals cost about $150 retail.
6.) Final vacuum. We give the pool a final vac to make sure it is clean when we are done.
Note: I have our customer service staff tell customers that an acid wash is like teeth whitening in that results vary. It is not new plaster or going to be as good as a brand new pool. However it will make a noticeable and significant difference if you have algae and/or stains on the plaster.
There are many that view chlorine is a necessary evil. Some are allergic to it, some have experienced poorly maintained chlorine pools, but pretty much everyone has experienced some of the smell and irritation on occassion even in the best of circumstances.
With good maintenance the undesirable affects of red eye and harshness on the skin can be reduced, and even the ability for the average pool swimmer to detect chlorine can be minimized. But it’s still necessary to disinfect and sanitize water.
However up to 90% of the chlorine used in a typical swimming pool is not burned up killing germs… rather it is worn away doing the work of oxidation or the breakdown of stuff in the water such as debris, oils, pollen, dust, suntan lotion etc. If we can reduce this workload on the chlorine we can free it up to do more of it’s job of sanitizing and disinfecting. When the chlorine is being used more exclusively for these things we can keep it at a lower level and still have safe, healthy swimming pool water.
….Even healthier, more natural water with less chlorine. That’s great news!
Ozonators for pool water do not bother the skin or hair and the results of the oxidation process have no bad environmental or health affects. As of this point I would stress ozone is a supplement for chlorine…. not a replacement. Be careful of people or companies that might be overselling it. You still need to do all the regular maintenance… it’s just the chlorine is going to be able to fulfill a much more narrow job description now… and you might not even know it’s there any more!
Overall the use of ozone is growing. In the past, the relatively high cost of ozone generators in a pool / spa application slowed their growth into the market. However ozone is really affordable now and I expect that when word gets out about how effective it is that we’ll see it become commonplace.
Ozone comes from Oxygen or O2. It is converted through electricity to “ozone” (it is also called O3). Ozone is a much more powerful oxidant than chlorine. However ozone perishes much faster than chlorine and as such has a much shorter “shelf life”. Ozone must be created and used at the pool-site. This is accomplished through the use of ozone generators which take oxygen in the air and convert it into ozone.
Ozone is very much considered a “short-term” disinfectant and chlorine is widely held to be a “long-term” disinfectant. An ozonator will oxidize many inorganic and organic toxins or impurities as well as inactivate bacteria, virus and cysts. It oxidizes metals such as iron, manganese, nitrate and certain nitrite types into insoluble types, which can then be filtered out via a cartridge or diatomaceous earth (DE) filter (we almost never recommend a sand filter).
As a noteworthy side benefit, ozone also works as an congeleling or clarifying agent to polish and soften the water.
Ozonation breaks down or oxidizes other contaminants in swimming pools and spa water and organic chemicals into safer elements. During the ozonation process, compounds such as cyanide and ammonia are broken down into nitrogen and water or other safe compounds.
You will get bubbles in the system during oxidation because as in nearly all reactions, the main by-product after oxidation is oxygen. Ozonation does not change the pH, nor does it react with the remaining organics in water to produce carcinogenic compounds. Ozone will help keep your spa or swimming pool clean by simply eliminating or significantly reducing the need for excessive chemicals.
Saltwater systems are very popular right now. There are pro’s and con’s. I want to briefly cover both sides in an effort to provide those considering upgrading or undergoing a serious saltwater system repair some objective information on both the case for and against a saltwater system.
I would like to point out that a saltwater pool is still utilizing chlorine to sanitize and disinfect the water. The salt cell for a saltwater pool is basically a chlorine generator creating chlorine through the process of electrolosys. See one of my earlier posts if you are interseted in how a saltwater pool or salt system works.
Chlorine gets a bum rap in our industry sometimes… however it is my opinion that a lot of the bad perceptions generally held by the public about chlorine are due to less than optimal maintenance.
The Pro’s:
Those who are fans of saltwater swimming pool systems will stress the benefits of:
1.) Smoother feeling water. Many argue that the chlorine doesn’t feel as harsh and is easier on the eyes and skin.
2.) Greener Pool. The good kind of green. The arguement is that a saltwater swimming pool is a more “natural” or green alternative to the traditional forms of chlorine.
3.) That a saltwater pool is cheaper and/or easier to maintain. I have had a number of customers tell me they were told “All I have to do is add salt and the pool will take care of itself.”
I believe items #1 and #2 above both have merit but know for certain that #3 is false. A saltwater system definitely costs more up front than an in-line chlorinating system and even a top of the line ozonator combined. So there is definitely more up front cost. There is also the issue of maintenance. Instead of the typical forms of chlorine a saltwater swimming pool will need more sodium bi-carb, more acid, and more cyaneric acid or chlorine stabilizer than a regular chlorine pool. The costs of these additional items often often slightly exceed the costs of using straight chlorine.
It is true that the pool water in a saltwater system can feel smoother to the skin and it will more closely match the saline levels of salt in a bather’s eyes. However probably one of the largest reasons the water “feels” better is due to continuous chloramine oxidation. Oxidation is the process of chlorine breaking down particles or debris in the water to smaller pieces. This process is the cause of about 90% of the chlorine used in many swimming pools. If a pool loses less chlorine due to oxidation then the chlorine can be maintained at a lower level on an ongoing basis.
As chlorine is used up it leaves behind chloramines. Chloramines are the by-product of chlorine oxidation that hurt bather’s eyes, smell bad, and feel harsh on their skin. Chloramine creation can be reduced significantly with the help of either a saltwater system or an ozonator carrying out a lot of the oxidation in the water. The traditional means of oxidation is shock or superchlorination. Superchlorination is achieved when the free chlorine in the pool water is 10 times the amount of chloramines. So for example, if you had 1ppm of chloramines you would need to get the free chlorine in the water above 10ppm to be strong enough to oxidize the chloramines.
When the water passes through the saltwater system’s salt cell (or chlorine generating cell) the cell itself creats a large amount of chlorine. This large amount of chorline in the plumbing immediately after the salt cell actually can achieve superchlorination and oxidize the chloramines that are going through the plumbing.
Con’s:
As someone who overseas hundreds of pools on a daily basis I can tell you there are some con’s.
1.) More maintenance. There are just more parts in motion as far as chemistry goes… or at least several of the chemical items move faster with a saltwater system causing more balancing and a lot more volume of stuff to be added on an ongoing basis.
It starts with the pH. The pH rises as electolosys occurs on a daily basis. This requires more muriatic acid to bring the pH back down. When the acid is added it pulls the total alkalinity (TA) down with it (albeit more slowly than the pH if your TA is up high enough). So then sodium bi-carbonate is needed to raise the TA (raising the pH with it slowly). Then more acid is often needed again…. you get the picture.
The other byproduct of ongoing electrolosys (chlorine generation) is that the cyanuric acid (also called conditioner or stabilizer) is lowered over time. This will require additional cyanuric acid at least once to several times a season to boost the level and ensure the chlorine is “stabilized” and doesn’t dissappate prematurely due to ultraviolet rays from the sun.
2.) Corrosion. Salt is harsh on metals, rubber seals and just about everything else that is easily affected by a corrosive element. From pump seals to heater parts to diving board screws bolting them to the deck to stamped concrete decks we have seen corrosion play a role in saltwater pools over time. There are types of tile, coping, and decking that are more compatible with saltwater… however the affects of salt will still be there to some degree no matter how well a pool is designed and constructed.
I hope this information helps. I will do another post soon on ozonators. I believe a pool owner can get nearly all the pros of a saltwater system with virtually none of the cons for less money. Please shoot me an email if you would like information on an ozonator right away.
In outside pools the sun has a big affect on the chlorine via its ultraviolet (UV) rays. The rays actually cause the chlorine to dissipate. Without stabilizer a perfect level of chlorine in a pool or spa can be lost in less than two hours on a bright sunny day, solely from the sun’s UV rays.
Shades for your Pool
The solution to prolonging chlorine life when exposed to UV rays is the introduction of a chemical called Cyanuric acid. Cyanuric acid acts as a “stabilizer” that helps shield the chlorine to the dissipating affects of the UV rays. Some have called it a “sun block” or “sunglasses” for your pool.
Minimum Cyanuric Needed
Cyanuric acid must be at least 30ppm chemically to effectively shield the chlorine from UV rays. Due to variances in testers and our desire to avoid being at risk of cyanuric going to low we will usually add cyanuric acid even if the level is 30ppm to get it at least to 40ppm. Our goal is to keep the cyanuric acid above 40ppm at all times.
Too Much Cyanuric?
We allow the cyanuric acid to go as high as 100 ppm (mg/L) before warning customers that it is getting higher than is recommended. While we can on some occasions work with a pool with a cyanuric acid level higher than 100 it makes it harder to get the best results from maintenance. Too much cyanuric acid reduces the effects of chlorine as both an oxidizer and disinfectant meaning more chlorine is required to get the same results. It can also lead to the pool being more at risk of stains and cloudy water. If it gets higher than recommended we suggest a partial drain of the pool water.
Cyanuric Creep
A number of commonly used forms of chlorine have an amount of cyanuric acid already contained in them. Examples include dichlor (typically a granular form) or trichlor (typically tablets). Using either or both of these means a small amount of cyanuric acid is being introduced to the pool water along with the chlorine. When used properly in conjunction with other forms of chlorine these amounts of cyanuric acid being introduced should not put it out of range for a number of seasons. Since it is recommended to do a partial drain of a pool every few seasons anyway the use of dichlor and trichlor should not normally cause any additional maintenance beyond what is already needed every few years via a partial drain.
The Remedy for Too Much Cyanuric
If the cyanuric acid level is your pool or spa is too high, you will need to partially drain and refill with fresh water.When you first fill your pool or spa, test the cyanuric acid level until you have added enough to reach the ideal range. After that, test cyanuric acid a minimum of once a month throughout the pool season.
Affects When Adding Cyanuric Acid
Adding cyanuric acid will lower the pH of the water making it more acidic. When adding it we commonly add sodium bi-carbonate or sodium carbonate to offset the affect on pH.
A salt system needs to have the water temperature be in the high 50’s or above (degrees Fahrenheit) for the process of electrolysis (whereby Chlorine generation occurs) to effectively work.
Here in the North Dallas, TX area salt cells will typically stop working at times during the Winter season. Sometimes they can stay shut off for weeks or even months depending on the water temperature. During this time we provide chlorine via tablet or granular form to our regular service customers to ensure Chlorine levels stay within range for effective sanitizing and disinfecting.
We also can have widely fluctuating temperatures here in the North Dallas-Plano-Frisco, TX area during the Winter season. This can cause some salt systems to start working again periodically as water temperatures rise above the threshold for chlorine generation.
When we maintain a pool here at Gabe’s Pool Service we always prefer to use the salt system whenever possible. However if we know temperatures might go below the level where a salt system will work then we will supplement with Chlorine tablets in a floating dispenser or in-line Chlorinating device.
